Sweet and Sour


 

In the  the late 1700’s the English remained in control of Antigua. Here in English Harbor, a protected cove surrounded by tall hills, Admiral Nelson found the perfect refuge for the English navy and the perfect lookout point.

From high on the hills, he could monitor the Spanish and  French fleets, the pirates and the privateers,  and remain in control of the English trade route. At that time, the trade route consisted of a horrible triangle of human exploitation and suffering. The English would pay conscriptors in Africa to rip people from their homes, stuff them foot to head on slave ships and ship them here, where they would be bought by the sugar plantation owners. The plantation owners were mostly Dutch…why?  Because the Dutch were experts at wind power and it took wind power to run the sugar pressing mills. 
Then the sugar would be processed and sent to England where the wealthy clamored for it to add to their  tea…tea being another slave labor product from the Caribbean. But first the merchant ships would stop off in the Carolinas to pick up the slave labor cotton. While in port, they would sell Caribbean sugar and spices  to the newly liberated United States…until England imposed a tax on any goods being sold to foreign nations, and the U.S.A. now being a foreign nation, the Antiguan sugar barons had to pay tax to sell to the U.S.A. The sugar industry went in the dumps,  the Dutch stopped buying slaves, and  in retribution (not out of some moral imperative) England responded by outlawing slavery in Antigua. In 1834, every resident of Antigua became  a free man, and 85% of the population was a freed slave. They were free but they were starving, because there were few ways to make a living. Christian missionaries descended upon the island to provide education and hope, and the English still owned the island so the Queen had to provide subsidies to keep the island from descending into chaos. The foregoing  is my long winded way of explaining Antigua today. It is a fascinating country. The people are educated, healthy and happy. The country  became independent in 1981, but holds on to both an English sensibility and its  own culture. They are fluent in both  their patois and a sartorial  English. The economy is better than most of the Leewards, but if you are not native Antiguan, good luck getting a job here. They are highly religious. It is not uncommon for them to be singing songs of praise as they go about their business. There is a pride in their tiny country and people take pride in their jobs in a manner  that we have experienced no where else in the Caribbean. In my next post, I will introduce you to one of our favorite examples.
Julianne   January 3rd  

                                              Atop Fort Berkely  English Harbour